Twill weave
A weave structure that creates diagonal lines across the fabric. Used for denim, chinos, gabardine, and most workwear pants.
Twill is one of the three foundational weave structures (alongside plain weave and satin). The weft thread passes over multiple warp threads in a staggered pattern, creating the characteristic diagonal ribs you see across denim, chinos, and most workwear fabric.
Denim is the most famous twill — its 3x1 right-hand twill (weft over three, under one, shifting right) is what gives jeans their diagonal pattern visible up close. Chino cloth is a tighter, finer twill. Gabardine is a steep twill with very pronounced ribs. Each variation is the same family of weaves with different yarn weights and twill angles.
Why it matters: twills are typically more drapey and durable than plain weaves at the same weight. Chinos drape better than canvas pants because of the twill structure even when the fabric weight is similar.
Chambray
A plain-weave cotton fabric with a colored warp + white weft, producing a denim-adjacent appearance. Lighter, softer, and much less durable than denim.
Selvedge denim
Denim woven on traditional shuttle looms, producing a clean self-finished edge that doesn't fray. Slower to make, more expensive, often higher quality.
Plain weave
The simplest weave structure — each weft yarn passes over and under alternating warp yarns. Used for poplin, broadcloth, canvas, and many shirting fabrics.
Chore coat
A boxy, four-pocket workwear jacket originally worn by French farmers and railway workers. The most versatile light outerwear in modern menswear.