Chore coat
A boxy, four-pocket workwear jacket originally worn by French farmers and railway workers. The most versatile light outerwear in modern menswear.
The chore coat ("bleu de travail" in French) originated as workwear for late-19th-century French farmers, factory workers, and railway maintenance crews. The defining features: a boxy cut, four large patch pockets, dropped shoulders, a flat collar without lapels, a single row of buttons. Traditionally made from a heavy moleskin or cotton drill in indigo blue (the "bleu" of the name), though modern interpretations come in canvas, denim, corduroy, wool, and waxed cotton.
The contemporary appeal is versatility. A chore coat sits comfortably over a tee or under a heavier coat; it's casual enough to throw on for groceries and structured enough to wear over a button-down for dinner. The cut works on most body types because of the dropped shoulders — there's no fitted shoulder seam to pull awkwardly.
Classic makers: Le Laboureur (the original French maker, still operating), Bleu de Paname, Vetra. Modern American workwear: Carhartt's chore is sturdier and more boxy; Buck Mason's is more refined; Taylor Stitch's "Ojai Jacket" is the brand's signature piece. Wax London and Wax Atelier in the UK make waxed-cotton chores that age beautifully.
Fit notes: traditional chore coats run boxy and full. Brands like Buck Mason offer slimmer modern interpretations; some readers prefer the loose original cut, others find it shapeless. Try before sizing down.
Twill weave
A weave structure that creates diagonal lines across the fabric. Used for denim, chinos, gabardine, and most workwear pants.
Plain weave
The simplest weave structure — each weft yarn passes over and under alternating warp yarns. Used for poplin, broadcloth, canvas, and many shirting fabrics.