Oxford cloth
A basket-weave cotton fabric — two yarns woven together as one — producing a soft, slightly textured surface common in casual button-downs.
Oxford cloth uses a basket weave: two warp yarns are paired and woven together as if they were one, producing a soft, textured surface with a subtle two-tone effect (often a colored warp + white weft, giving the classic "blue oxford" appearance). It's heavier and more textured than a poplin, lighter than a flannel.
The iconic OCBD (oxford cloth button-down) is the J.Press / Brooks Brothers / Drake's template — soft collar with a button at the points, casual enough for an unbuttoned weekend but rigid enough to wear under a sport coat. Pinpoint oxford uses finer yarns for a more refined surface; royal oxford adds a subtle dobby pattern.
Weight typically runs 150–230 GSM. The fabric softens significantly with washing, which is part of the appeal — a brand-new OCBD looks too crisp; a five-year-old one is broken in like a denim jacket.
GSM
Grams per square meter — the standard unit for fabric weight. Higher GSM = heavier, denser, often more durable.
Plain weave
The simplest weave structure — each weft yarn passes over and under alternating warp yarns. Used for poplin, broadcloth, canvas, and many shirting fabrics.
OCBD (Oxford Cloth Button-Down)
A button-down collar shirt in oxford cloth — the foundational casual button-down. Ivy League origin, now universal.